Congenital hyperpigmentation

Congenital depigmentation manifests as freckles. It is genetically determined and occurs mainly in red-haired or fair-haired individuals (the so-called Celtic type). It typically appears in the central part of the face, on the arms, and in the upper third of the chest or back.

Acquired hyperpigmentation

Melanin hyperpigmentation more commonly affects people with higher phototypes. It is most often seen in middle-aged women, but its incidence is also increasing in men (who generally do not consider it a significant cosmetic issue).

Hyperpigmentation usually does not have a single cause but is rather a complex process. The most common type is chloasma, which arises from a combination of UV exposure and hormonal fluctuations (e.g. pregnancy, oral contraceptives), the use of certain cosmetic products, or specific medications.
Pigmentation changes occur in up to 10–20% of women of reproductive age using hormonal contraception, which is why this group should pay special attention to prevention.

The fundamental approach is to eliminate the cause that triggers hyperpigmentation. Because melanin production is the skin’s natural response to UV radiation, pigment spots may reappear quickly after new sun exposure.

It is important to remember that all sources of UV radiation (sunlight, tanning beds, or artificial light sources) can cause pigmentation. It’s not just intentional sunbathing — any exposure counts. Even through glass (at home, in the office, or in the car), a significant portion of UVA radiation passes through.

Just a few minutes of exposure can trigger uneven melanin activation in predisposed individuals. Therefore, proper UV protection is crucial — especially on highly exposed areas such as the face and décolleté.

Whitening of pigment spots

Skin whitening is a long-term process that requires regular care and consistent sun protection.

In 1961, hydroquinone began to be used for whitening melanin pigment spots. Hydroquinone blocks the key enzyme that converts tyrosine into the melanin precursor dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA). However, it cannot remove existing pigment — it only prevents new formation. Long-term use was therefore required.
Experience has shown that hydroquinone can also block pigmentation in areas outside the application site, leading to unwanted hypopigmentation elsewhere. Long-term use can even cause paradoxical darkening (so-called exogenous ochronosis). For this reason, hydroquinone has been banned in bleaching creams in the EU since 2000.

Another option is a chemical peel, which removes the outermost skin layers along with superficial pigment cells. It does not affect deeper pigmentation. Peels are performed using acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or trichloroacetic acid. Only a few products are suitable for home use; in most cases, treatment must be performed by a dermatologist. Aggressive application may damage deeper skin layers.

A more recent approach involves dioic acids (e.g. octadecenedioic acid, azelaic acid). These substances inhibit melanin production and promote even distribution in the skin, gradually blending the border between hyperpigmented and normal skin. Their main advantage is excellent tolerance, making them safe for home use.

Among physical methods, intense pulsed light (IPL) and special lasers are commonly used. IPL therapy leads to photo-rejuvenation, improving skin texture and removing unwanted cosmetic imperfections. Specific lasers target pigment-containing cells through selective photothermolysis, effectively breaking down discolored areas.